Au Naturale
 
 

The other day a makeup artist at Nordstrom complimented me on how nice my skin was and my first reaction was, "mhm I know" but that's only because it's been a long road to clear skin!

A few years ago I decided to go all natural with my beauty regime, that meant going off birth control as well since it contained one of the harmful ingredients I was trying to avoid (propylene glycol). Going through hormonal changes as well as using natural products that - let's face it - don't always work as good as the others, meant I had awful acne prone skin for over a year.

So instead of you going through the terrible process I did, I thought I'd share some of the revolutionary things that changed my skin and has resulted in me getting ID'd everywhere I go (#winning).

1. Hot Lemon Water

Because of our diets (I'm looking at you cheese, bread, and alcohol) we're always running a little acidic and this has a major effect on our skin. A cup of hot lemon water first thing in the morning is REVOLUTIONARY as it brings some alkalinity to our bodies and balances our pH. But as my facialist warned me, only once a day because we don't want to be too alkaline.

2. Diet

Obvs, I don't even need to go there because you already know that chocolate and chips are bad for your skin.

3. Caffeine

I quit caffeine. I know, I know. It's crazy, and it really was hard but it was giving me eczema so I had to and the unknown side effect was clearer skin and no more dark circles under my eyes. I have a feeling I'm not going to convince anyone on this one, but if the mood ever strikes you give it a try and see the results for yourself.

4. Retinol

This is a dangerous one because you don't want to use Retin-A unless prescribed by a dermatologist. That means this is a product worth investing in, no winner's/drug store finds okay? I highly recommend Osmosis MD Renew because it's all natural and low dose - it's expensive but it WORKS. Retinol is a miracle in a bottle in terms of preventing break outs and removing any skin impurities. It does cause sun sensitivity so I recommend using it at night before your night cream - if you didn't know your skin is most open and has the highest rate of absorption between 1am and 4am.

5. The Body Deli

No, not The Body Shop, The Body Deli, a small batch, all natural skin care brand based out of Palm Desert, California. Every single product I've tried has been nothing short of amazing. I cannot stress how hard it is to find all natural products that actually work and The Body Deli does not disappoint. My favourites are the Vital C Serum, Cucumber Gelee, Light Facial Emulsion, and Night Replenishing Creme. 

 

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DIY Espadrilles to Flat Mules

I got these vinyl "espadrilles" (if you can call them that) from the thrift store last year and have worn them once...I think. So I decided it was time for an update, make them into something I'd actually wear and it just so happens the shoe of the season is the flat mule/slide. (inspo here)

What you'll need:

  • Old/thrifted espadrilles
  • Stitch ripper
  • Scissors

Now I'm not suggesting you start cutting your Chanel espadrilles - but then again if you've got Chanel espadrilles you can just buy a brand new pair of mules but where's the fun in that? For what may be the easiest DIY ever, step 1 is stitch ripping the seam that connects the top of the shoe to the sides - those are technical terms.

Then you cut all the way around the heel, careful not to snip the lovely rope stitches et voila! Espadrilles are now mules and if you want to take it a step further, you can try embellishing them!

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6 Ways To Better Your Business

Becoming a creative entrepreneur has definitely been a journey; one with lots of ups and downs and a few defining moments. With no prior experience in fashion, design, or owning a business there was plenty of trial and error (and still is) but there were a few things that set my brand on a different trajectory. So here's some of the key changes I made that took my business up a notch: 

 
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1. Stories sell

When I first started out I followed the adage "fake it till you make it", especially when it came to social media. I thought it was better to pretend that I was already a big brand and in doing so I wasn't sharing any of the real story. I eventually realized that the story of how each piece is hand made, by me usually, with a lot of love and attention was exactly what made my products so special! Don't be afraid to show the real story, authenticity is in.

2. Free shipping

I used to charge exactly what shipping cost for each product - why wouldn't I? Until I realized that even that small amount deterred people from clicking submit order at checkout. So I decided to include the cost of domestic shipping - which for my product is just under $4 including envelope and packaging - in each product so I could offer free shipping across canada. I immediately saw sales growth. 

3. Fewer freebies

I know we'd all love to think that giving free product to bloggers is going to give us more exposure and sales, but for the most part...it doesn't. When I first started out I would give away 4 pieces every season, and sure I gained some social media exposure from doing so, but at the end of the year I looked back and realized they weren't translating to sales. So really, I was in the red the for the cost of 16 free items. My advice is, if you're going to collaborate with bloggers make sure you pick them carefully and they aren't just there for the free clothes. 

4. If you're not proud of your product, don't offer it

I started out selling handbags and everyone LOVED them. They appealed to a wide demographic, they were affordable, the perfect present but - I wasn't proud of the product. They took so long to make and I still wasn't ever happy with the end result. I felt that they could be improved and I wasn't capable so... I stopped making them and continued with my less popular product, bralettes. There was a definite lull at first but over time and with my increased confidence in the product I found a new audience. 

5. Learn to say no and delegate 

When you're starting out it's easy to say yes to everything - to opportunities, to customers, and to collaborations. Ultimately not all of these are going to be good for you or your business but we feel obligated to say yes. It goes hand in hand with trying to do everything yourself. You have to sell your strengths and buy your weaknesses (still working on this one), but if you can decide where you want to focus your energy you'll notice a difference right away. The minute you start saying no to things that aren't going to help you,  you can start putting that energy into things that will and your business will flourish. 

6. No fear

Last but not least, don't be afraid. Life is all about moving forward and there are no wrong moves. 

Making A Fashion Collection: Guest Post by Mandisa Morgan

The following is an article originally published by Mandisa Morgan, an independent designer based in Toronto, Canada. Original here


As many of you know, I have a clothing brand by the name of SASHAY. The brand is a huge part of my life because I do everything from designing and sewing to marketing and accounting all on my own, with the exception of production; which I'll get into later.  I thought it would be good for me to share the process I go through while creating a new collection, specifically for those who are curious or are thinking about becoming an independent designer.

I launched my first collection in the summer of 2015, but SASHAY had been a work in progress for approximately two years prior. When I launched my first collection, I had no formal training whatsoever; everything I had learned up until that point was either self-taught, seen on YouTube or experienced through my two internships. That being said, if you are passionate about designing and put in the work everything will fall in place and all of your hard work will pay off, but it won't be easy!

Inspiration

When designing a collection, I usually take inspiration from everything; nature, streetstyle, magazines, and architecture to name a few. 

Rough Sketches

Before starting to draw my designs, I usually have an idea of the direction I'd like to go in with the collection. I do a ton of very rough sketches, done in a little notebook I always have with me to get my ideas on paper. Most of these rough sketches do not make the final cut for different reasons. However, I do keep all of my designs handy for future collections. 

Finalize Designs

When finalizing my designs, I print out faint croquis and draw each design on its own croquis. I don't usually colour them in because by this point I still have not solidified the colour palette for the collection. Also, on the paper of my 1/4 scales, I make note of the details associated with each style (for example: center back seam, 9" invisible zipper, etc.). This stage in the process is always tricky for me. I really have to fight myself to make up my mind and stick to what I've chosen to be in the collection. It always happens that I'll have 5 piece, for instance, that make the cut, but then a couple days later I add something and/or eliminate another. I'm getting better at making cut off deadlines for myself, so I know there is no going back once the deadline comes.

Draft Patterns

After my designs are complete and the collection has been finalized, I move on to doing 1/4 scale drafts of each style. The 1/4 scale draft usually fits on an 8.5" x 11" piece of paper. I like to do 1/4 scale drafts before full scale ones because it's easier to work out on a smaller scale. Also, I can carry and work on my 1/4 scales wherever I go, as opposed to the full scales where I'd need lots of table or floor space (yes, sometimes I do my pattern making on the floor). Once the 1/4 scale drafts are complete, I move onto full scale. Basically I duplicate everything I did from the 1/4 scales to the full scale, including all notches, drill holes and seam allowances.

First Samples

Once I've drafted the patterns for each style, I test the patterns by construction the fist sample from muslin. It is at this stage where all of my drafting errors will show. If there are any errors which need to be corrected, I am able to fix the pattern before moving forward with constructing the actual sample using the fabric chosen for the collection. Although doing a first sample can seem like extra unnecessary work, but let me tell you that in the end I am so glad that I take the time to complete this step. I mean, it would really suck if you skipped this step and used your actual fabric, only to find out that there is an issue with your pattern...you won't be happy at the fact that you just wasted some of your fabric. So take my ("stupid") advice and do this step!

Colour Palette & Source Fabric

Okay, so designs are now complete and finalized. Next on the agenda is to determine what the colour palette will be and source fabric. I actually source fabric and choose out of the available colours offered in the fabric... I'm a rebel, I know. No, but this is just what makes the most sense to me. Because my brand is not trend based, I'd rather have the fabric I want rather than the colours. Almost every fabric comes in black; I always offer garments in black (I mean come on, who doesn't wear black, right?... Confession: it's all I've been wearing lately). Back on topic. As I was saying, finding the fabric (to me) is more important because not all fabrics will be suitable for my designs. I have a vision and I must see that vision come to reality. I get my fabric from a wholesaler, so I buy bolts of fabric at a much cheaper price than what any fabric store at Queen & Spadina has to offer...let me tell you! Once I've placed my order, the fabric will be shipped to me and that's when I get started on the actual samples.

Actual Garment Samples

So once I've completed the muslin garment and make the necessary corrections to my patterns, I'm ready to construct the actual samples. This is one of my favourite parts because this is when my initial garment illustration comes to life. Now, if you're wondering why you'd need samples, the answer is to do a photoshoot in order to create a lookbook/catalog of all of your garments for the collection, and also to have something tangible to take with you to buying meetings. This way potential buyers can see, feel and know exactly what to expect before placing an order.

Cost Sheets

Once I've completed the actual samples, I make a cost sheet for each style. The cost sheet includes all expenses that pertain to a specific style, and also includes labour and MU% (mark up). It will tell you exactly how much it cost to make each style, and given your MU% it will advice a SRP (suggested retail price).

Photoshoot & Lookbook

After I've constructed all of my actual garment samples, I'm am ready to book a photoshoot. Photoshoots are always fun, especially when I get to work with people I know personally. Once the photoshoot is complete and the edited photos have been sent to me, I proceed to make my lookbook and line sheets. The purpose of the lookbook is to get potential buyers excited about the collection and interested in buying. The line sheets include flats of each style (front and back), cost, SRP, fiber content and give or take a few other things.

Production

When I comes to production, everything is made to order. If an order is 5 pieces or less, I will make the 5 pieces. But because I am also a full time student from September to April, if any orders  are placed that is more than 5 pieces, I have those orders made by my seamstress.

 

Overall, I'd say it takes anywhere from 6 to 7 months for me to start and complete a collection. I won't lie, there is a lot of procrastination that goes one over here, but I always give myself enough extra time to get things done. I hope this was somewhat helpful for those of you who are thinking about this career path. It is a fun, tiring, stressful, but rewarding  one and I wouldn't trade it for any other career. 

 

xo,

Mandisa

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Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel
"The only real elegance is in the mind; if you've got that, the rest really comes from it." - DV

If you haven't watched The Eye Has To Travel, a documentary on the legendary Diana Vreeland, then what are you waiting for? It serves up everything you could ever want in a movie: laughter, drama, fashion, eccentricity, and - more than anything else - INSPIRATION.

Particularly at this time of year we could all use a fresh dose of inspo and Mrs.Vreeland gives us just that. Here are a few gems from the woman who gave Twiggy, Cher, Lauren Hutton, Manolo Blanhik, Oscar de la Renta, and Diane Von Furstenburg their starts.

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I don’t start over, I go onto the next thing. They’re all the same really.
— Diana Vreeland
With an attitude like that you’ll keep civilization back 1000 years!
— Diana Vreeland
Reporter: Are you a feminist?
DV: I don’t even know what you mean by that. I don’t know what all this talk is about, women being any different from the way they ever were. Are they different from the way they ever were?
At the same time mannequins became personalities, personalities became mannequins.
— Diana Vreeland
You’re not supposed to give people what they want, you’re supposed to give people what they don’t know they want yet!
— Diana Vreeland

Though she passed in 1989 the modern world could learn a lot from her right now. She always pushed people to emphasize their faults. She was the first to feature Barbara Streisand in Vogue and insisted that she only be shot in profile to show off her nose. She believed that trying to fit into the mold was useless and instead your faults are what make you stand out.

In a day and age where we see the same 5 instagram accounts over and over, and people are questioning whether personal style still exists, we could all use a little Diana Vreeland in our lives and our heads.

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Memos

A new source for stylish, creative + authentic women

 

This is a place for discussion - from fashion to health and business to lifestyle, these memos are meant to be thought-provoking, inspiring and create conversation amongst a new generation of creatives.

As an entrepreneur and writer I create most, and edit all, of the content you see here. Collaborations are key to having meaningful discussions and building a community so if you are a blogger, writer, brand owner or all of the above and have something already written that you would like shared here, please forward it to hello@shopsewn.com.

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